Short answer: Threading, waxing and epilating all pull hair out from the root, so they keep the upper lip and chin smooth for roughly 2 to 6 weeks, much longer than shaving. Threading is the most precise for small facial areas and, according to DermNet, less painful than waxing; waxing is fastest for a whole upper lip; and facial epilators suit people who want a do-it-yourself routine. None of them is permanent, and all three can cause ingrown hairs, irritation and dark marks, especially on darker skin. Very few studies compare them head to head.[1][2][3][4]
If you have hirsutism, the upper lip and chin are usually where unwanted hair bothers you most. Coarse, dark hairs there are often driven by androgens (hormones such as testosterone), most commonly in PMOS, previously called polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).[5] Shaving is quick, but stubble returns within a day or two. Root-removal methods buy you more time, at the cost of some pain and skin irritation.
This guide compares threading, waxing and epilating for facial hair. It covers how each one works, how long results last, what it feels like, and the skin problems to watch for. We want to be upfront: When Cochrane reviewers searched for randomized trials of cosmetic hair removal methods in women with hirsutism, they found none.[6] So most of what follows comes from dermatology guidance, reviews and case reports, not from trials comparing the methods.
Threading vs waxing vs epilating at a glance
Here is how the three methods compare for upper lip and chin hair. Details and sources follow below.
| Threading | Waxing | Epilator | |
|---|---|---|---|
| How it works | A twisted cotton thread is rolled over the skin and pulls out rows of hair[4] | Warm or cold wax grips the hair and is pulled off against the direction of growth[7] | A handheld device with rotating tweezers pulls out several hairs at once[3] |
| How long it lasts | 4 to 5 weeks[2] | 2 to 3 weeks before regrowth (DermNet); a few weeks or longer (AAD)[1][2] | Similar to other root methods, about 6 weeks at most[3] |
| Pain | Considered less painful than plucking or waxing[4] | Removing the wax can be painful[2] | Stings, especially at first; no comparative data |
| Hair length needed | Short hair is fine | About 1/4 to 3/4 inch[7] | Short hair is fine |
| Best for | Upper lip, brows, chin; precise lines[4] | Whole upper lip or larger patches quickly | DIY at home, frequent touch-ups |
| Not suitable for | Large areas[2] | Sunburned or very sensitive skin; recent isotretinoin; active retinoid use[7] | Irritated or broken skin |
| Main skin risks | Redness, folliculitis, dark marks; warts or molluscum spread with poor hygiene[8][9] | Burns, folliculitis, ingrown hairs, dark marks, scarring[1] | Folliculitis, ingrown hairs, dark marks[3] |
| Who does it | Usually a salon; can be learned at home | Salon or home kits | At home |
| Permanent? | No | No[1] | No |
How does each method work?
All three are forms of epilation, meaning they remove the whole hair, including the root, rather than cutting it at the surface like shaving.[3][4] The difference is the tool.
Threading
Evidence: Limited A practitioner loops a long cotton thread, twists it, and rolls it along the skin so the twist catches and pulls out hairs. DermNet notes that it produces clean lines and is used for eyebrow shaping and upper lip hair.[4] The evidence label reflects that there are no controlled studies of threading for hirsutism; what we know comes from dermatology guidance and case reports.
Waxing
Evidence: Limited Warm wax is spread in the direction of hair growth, covered with a cloth strip, and pulled off quickly in the opposite direction.[7] DermNet calls waxing the most effective method of epilation because it removes hair completely, but notes that the long-term effects of repeated waxing are unknown.[4][1]
Epilating
Evidence: Limited An epilator is an electric device with rotating tweezers that grabs and pulls out several hairs at once.[3] DermNet describes these electrical tweezers as useful for larger areas.[4] We found no studies of epilators for facial hirsutism specifically.
How long do threading, waxing and epilating last on the face?
Expect roughly 2 to 6 weeks of smooth skin, depending on the method and your own hair cycle. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says threading results can last 4 to 5 weeks, and waxing results a few weeks or longer.[2] DermNet puts regrowth after waxing at 2 to 3 weeks.[1] A 2025 dermatology review in Cutis estimates results of root-removal methods at about 6 weeks.[3]
Why the range? Hair grows in cycles. At any time, some follicles are in the growing phase (anagen) and some are resting (telogen). When you pull out a hair, a new one has to grow up to the surface, and resting follicles you couldn’t see will start growing on their own schedule. One review of hair biology lists the moustache area at about 65% of hairs in the growing phase with a resting phase of about 6 weeks, and the beard area at about 70% with a resting phase of about 10 weeks.[10] These figures come from older research, largely in men, so treat them as rough guides. Hormonal hair in women with hirsutism may grow back sooner.
Which hurts more: Threading, waxing or epilating?
There are no studies that measure pain for these three methods on the face. DermNet reports that threading is considered less painful than plucking, waxing and sugaring.[4] The AAD notes that removing wax can be painful, and suggests taking an over-the-counter pain reliever such as ibuprofen or applying a cold pack about 30 minutes beforehand.[2][7] Many people find all three hurt less after repeated sessions, but that is anecdotal.
Do threading, waxing and epilating cause ingrown hairs and bumps?
Yes, all three can. The Endocrine Society’s 2018 hirsutism guideline says epilation methods such as plucking and waxing are relatively safe and inexpensive, but that scarring, folliculitis (inflamed hair follicles) and hyperpigmentation can occur, particularly in women of color.[11] DermNet lists pain, folliculitis, scarring, hyperpigmentation and ingrown hairs (pseudofolliculitis) as side effects of epilation.[4] The Cutis review adds burns from waxing and notes that these problems are more likely when many hairs are removed at once, as with waxing or an epilator.[3]
Tips that can help (practical, not trial-tested):
- Start with clean skin and clean tools.
- Don’t remove hair from skin that is already inflamed or has active acne.
- Avoid heavy oils or thick creams on the area for a day afterward.
- Don’t pick at bumps. If they keep coming back, read our guide to preventing and treating ingrown hairs.
- See a dermatologist if redness or swelling after waxing lasts more than two days.[7]
Is threading or waxing better for darker skin?
Neither is clearly better, because no study has compared them in darker skin. The main concern is postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), meaning dark marks that appear after irritation or inflammation and can last for months. The Endocrine Society guideline specifically notes that hyperpigmentation after epilation is more common in women of color.[11] In practice, the method that irritates your skin least is the one to choose. Many women with darker skin prefer threading for small areas because it is precise and doesn’t involve heat, but this is a preference, not a proven advantage.
Can you get an infection from threading or waxing?
It is uncommon, but it happens, mostly through poor hygiene. Case reports describe flat warts and molluscum contagiosum (a viral skin infection) spreading along the eyebrows after salon threading.[9][8] One 2019 report summarized earlier case series of 8 patients with warts and 8 with molluscum on the eyebrows after threading.[8] The likely routes are a reused thread, shared towels or tools, and tiny breaks in the skin caused by the hair removal itself.[8][9] A separate case describes warts spreading on a woman’s neck after facial waxing, likely from a shared towel.[9]
To lower your risk:
- Make sure your threader uses a fresh thread for every client.[9]
- Choose a salon that uses fresh towels and does not double-dip wax applicators.
- Don’t have threading or waxing over warts, cold sores or broken skin. Get existing warts treated first.[9]
- Clean your own epilator head after every use, and don’t share it.
Can you wax if you use retinoids or isotretinoin?
Not without precautions. Retinoids make facial skin more fragile, so wax can remove skin along with the hair.[7] The AAD advises stopping retinol products and prescription retinoids for 2 to 5 days before waxing your face, and not waxing at all if you have taken isotretinoin (an oral acne medication) in the last six months.[7] DermNet is more cautious: It advises stopping topical retinoids 3 to 4 weeks before waxing, and waiting at least 6 months to a year after stopping oral retinoids such as isotretinoin.[1] An Indian dermatology guideline points out that the 6-month rule rests on weak evidence for many procedures, but it still reflects the official drug label.[12] If you use a retinoid, ask your dermatologist which method suits you. Threading and epilating don’t involve wax sticking to the skin, but there is no specific guidance on using them with retinoids.
Does threading or waxing stop hair growing eventually?
No reliable evidence shows that it does. The Cutis review notes that pulling out hair during the growth phase can damage the hair root and “potentially” reduce hair over time, but this has not been shown to happen predictably.[3] DermNet notes that the long-term effects of repeated waxing are unknown.[1] Read more in how many times you have to wax before hair stops growing.
If you want hair gone for good, the options with evidence are laser and electrolysis. The Endocrine Society guideline suggests laser or light-based hair removal (photoepilation) for most women who choose hair removal, and electrolysis for white or blonde hair. For women with high androgen levels, it also suggests medication to slow regrowth.[11] The AAD notes that even laser is not permanent on a woman’s face, because of hormones.[13] Compare options in our guide to permanent hair removal.
Which method should you choose?
- A few stray chin hairs: Tweezers are often enough. See the pros and cons of tweezing.
- Upper lip and brows, small areas: Threading is precise and, for many, less painful.
- A whole upper lip or larger patches: Waxing is quick, as long as you don’t use retinoids or isotretinoin.
- Frequent touch-ups at home: An epilator avoids salon visits, but expect a learning curve and some redness.
- Daily smooth skin without pain: Shaving or dermaplaning are painless, but stubble returns quickly.
Hair removal is a personal choice. Whatever you choose, it helps to understand what causes a female moustache in the first place.
When to see a doctor
Hair removal manages the hair, not the cause. If you haven’t had your facial hair checked, try our hirsutism self-check and talk to a doctor. See a doctor promptly if you notice:
- Hair growth that starts suddenly or gets worse quickly[11]
- A deepening voice, an enlarged clitoris or increasing muscle mass[11]
- Irregular or missing periods[11]
- Painful, spreading bumps, pus or new growths after threading or waxing
Frequently asked questions
Is threading or waxing better for upper lip hair?
Both work. Threading is more precise and considered less painful by DermNet, while waxing is faster for the whole area. Threading results last about 4 to 5 weeks according to the AAD.[4][2]
How long does threading last on the chin?
About 4 to 5 weeks, according to the AAD. Hormonal hair may grow back sooner, and hairs that were resting during your session will appear on their own schedule.[2]
Can you use an epilator on your face?
Some epilators are designed for the face. They pull out several hairs at once, which is efficient but can cause folliculitis, ingrown hairs and dark marks. Test a small area first.[3]
Does threading cause dark spots?
It can. Any epilation method can leave dark marks after inflammation, and the Endocrine Society notes this is more common in women of color. Gentle technique and avoiding irritated skin help.[11]
Can I wax my face while using retinol or tretinoin?
Not right away. The AAD advises stopping retinoids 2 to 5 days before waxing your face, and DermNet suggests 3 to 4 weeks for prescription topical retinoids. Don’t wax within six months of taking isotretinoin.[7][1]
Key takeaways
- Threading, waxing and epilating remove hair from the root and typically last 2 to 6 weeks on the face.
- No trials compare them directly in women with hirsutism, so choose based on area, pain tolerance and how your skin reacts.
- All three can cause folliculitis, ingrown hairs and dark marks, especially on darker skin.
- Insist on a fresh thread and clean tools, and skip waxing if you use retinoids or have taken isotretinoin recently.
- None is permanent. Laser or electrolysis, plus medical treatment for hormonal causes, is the route to long-term reduction.
Sources
- DermNet. Waxing. Accessed October 2026. Link
- American Academy of Dermatology. 6 ways to remove unwanted hair. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Gutierrez A, Coffel BN, Wong EB. Management of facial hair in women. Cutis. 2025;116(6):198-201. DOI 10.12788/cutis.1310
- DermNet. Epilation. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Teede HJ, Bahri Khomami M, Morman R, et al. Polyendocrine metabolic ovarian syndrome, the new name for polycystic ovary syndrome: a multistep global consensus process. Lancet. 2026;407(10545):2329-2339. Published online May 12, 2026. PubMed 42119588
- van Zuuren EJ, Fedorowicz Z, Carter B, Pandis N. Interventions for hirsutism (excluding laser and photoepilation therapy alone). Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2015;(4):CD010334. PubMed 25918921
- American Academy of Dermatology. Hair removal: How to wax. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Kedia P, Madke B. Unilateral molluscum contagiosum following eyebrow grooming. J Clin Diagn Res. 2019;13(11):WD01-WD02. DOI 10.7860/JCDR/2019/42600.13283
- Sonthalia S, Arora R, Sarkar R. Cosmetic warts: pseudo-koebnerization of warts after cosmetic procedures for hair removal. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015;8(7):52-56. PubMed 26203322
- Lepselter J, Elman M. Biological and clinical aspects in laser hair removal. J Dermatolog Treat. 2004;15:72-83. DOI 10.1080/09546630310023152
- Martin KA, Anderson RR, Chang RJ, et al. Evaluation and Treatment of Hirsutism in Premenopausal Women: An Endocrine Society Clinical Practice Guideline. J Clin Endocrinol Metab. 2018;103(4):1233-1257. PubMed 29522147
- Mysore V, Mahadevappa OH, Barua S, et al. Standard guidelines of care: performing procedures in patients on or recently administered with isotretinoin. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2017;10(4):186-194. PubMed 29491653
- American Academy of Dermatology. Laser hair removal: Overview. Accessed October 2026. Link
This article is for education and is not medical advice. Talk to a doctor about diagnosis and treatment.