Short answer: Yes, dermaplaning is generally safe for women with hirsutism, as long as your skin is healthy and you use a clean, sharp blade. For hair, it works just like shaving: It cuts hair at the skin surface, so it does not make hair grow back thicker, darker or faster, but coarse hormonal hair returns as stubble within a day or two. There are no clinical studies on dermaplaning for hirsutism, and dermatologists advise doing it no more than once a week, so it suits fine peach fuzz better than daily chin stubble.[1][2]
Dermaplaning has gone from a spa treatment to something many women do in their bathroom with a small, single-blade tool. If you have hirsutism, meaning coarse, dark hair in places like the chin, upper lip and jawline, you may be wondering whether it is a gentler or “more feminine” option than shaving, and whether it will make things worse.
This guide explains what dermaplaning actually does to hair and skin, how it compares with shaving, plucking and threading, how to do it safely, and who should skip it. Whether you remove facial hair at all is your choice. If you do, it helps to know what each method can and can’t do.
What is dermaplaning, and is it different from shaving?
Evidence: Limited For hair removal, dermaplaning is essentially shaving with a different blade. Cleveland Clinic describes it as removing the peach fuzz (fine, light vellus hair) from the surface of the skin while also scraping off dead skin cells.[1] At home, people use small single blades on a plastic handle. In a clinic or medical spa, a trained professional uses a small scalpel.[1] We rate the evidence as limited because we could not find any clinical studies of dermaplaning as a hair removal method, in women with hirsutism or anyone else. What we know comes from how shaving works.
The main difference from a regular razor is the exfoliation. A dermaplaning blade is held at an angle and scraped across the skin, so it takes off a thin layer of dead skin along with the hair. That is why many people like it before makeup, and also why it can irritate skin if you do it too often.[1]
Does dermaplaning make facial hair grow back thicker?
No. Dermaplaning cuts hair at the surface, and cutting hair does not change the follicle underneath. Mayo Clinic states that shaving does not change the thickness, color or rate of growth of hair.[2] A 2025 dermatology review in Cutis calls the idea that shaving makes hair grow back thicker or faster “a common misconception” and notes that shaving does not alter hair thickness or growth rate.[3] A Cleveland Clinic dermatologist says the same about dermaplaning specifically.[1]
So why does regrowth feel coarser? A natural hair has a fine, tapered tip. Cutting it leaves a blunt end, which feels prickly as it grows out and can look darker for a while.[2] If your hair seems to be getting thicker or spreading over months or years, the cause is hormones, not your blade. That is worth checking with a doctor, especially if it is changing quickly.
Is dermaplaning a good fit for hormonal facial hair?
It can be, but it has clear limits. Dermaplaning works well for fine, light peach fuzz. Coarse, dark terminal hair caused by androgens (hormones such as testosterone), as in PMOS (formerly PCOS), grows back just as fast after dermaplaning as after shaving.[4]
Where dermaplaning works well
- It is painless when done correctly, unlike plucking or waxing.[5]
- You don’t need to grow hair out first. Waxing, for example, needs hair about one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch long.[6]
- It removes fine hair and dead skin at the same time, which can help makeup sit more smoothly.
- It is quick, cheap and private.
Where it falls short
- Coarse hair comes back fast. Like shaving, results are short-lived, and you may need to remove hair daily or every few days.[5]
- You shouldn’t do it daily. A Cleveland Clinic dermatologist advises dermaplaning no more than once a week so your skin can recover.[1] If you need a smooth chin every day, a regular razor with shaving gel is usually gentler for daily use. See our guide to shaving your face.
- It does not remove the dark root under the skin, so a shadow may still show. Our guide on how to hide stubble with makeup covers color correcting.
- Coarse, curly hair that is cut short can curve back into the skin and cause razor bumps.[7]
- It does nothing to slow hair growth or treat the hormonal cause.
Dermaplaning vs shaving vs plucking vs threading: Which is best for facial hair?
The best method depends on how much hair you have, how coarse it is and how often you are willing to repeat it. Methods that cut hair (dermaplaning and shaving) are painless but short-lived. Methods that pull hair from the root (plucking and threading) last longer but hurt more and can cause ingrown hairs and dark marks.[3][8]
| Dermaplaning | Shaving | Plucking (tweezing) | Threading | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| How it works | Blade cuts hair at the surface and scrapes off dead skin[1] | Razor cuts hair at the surface[3] | Pulls single hairs out from the root[3] | Twisted thread pulls out rows of hair from the root[9] |
| How long results last | About as long as shaving: A day or two for coarse hair | Short-lived; often daily or every few days[5] | Roughly 6 weeks for root-removal methods[3] | 4 to 5 weeks[5] |
| Pain | Painless if done correctly | Painless (unless you cut yourself)[5] | Stings | Less painful than plucking or waxing, according to DermNet[9] |
| Best for | Fine peach fuzz, smoothing skin before makeup | Coarse hair you want gone daily | A few stray hairs | Upper lip, brows, small areas[5] |
| Main downsides | Nicks, irritation, breakouts; max once a week[1] | Stubble, razor bumps[7] | Time, ingrown hairs, dark marks, scarring[3] | Dark marks, irritation; infections spread with poor hygiene[10] |
| Makes hair thicker? | No[1] | No[2] | No | No |
For a detailed comparison of root-removal methods, read threading vs waxing vs epilating for upper lip and chin hair. If stubble is your main problem, our article on chin stubble as a woman covers longer-term options.
How often should you dermaplane?
No more than once a week. That is the advice of Cleveland Clinic dermatologist Melissa Piliang, so that your skin has time to recover between sessions.[1] There are no studies that set an ideal interval. Because each session also removes a layer of skin, doing it more often raises the chance of irritation. If your hair grows back faster than that, consider shaving in between, or a longer-lasting method.
How to dermaplane safely at home, step by step
These steps combine dermatologist advice with practical tips. Where a tip comes from a source, we cite it.
- Check your skin first. Skip dermaplaning if you have a breakout, a rash, a cold sore or any irritated patch (see the next section).[1][11]
- Use a clean, sharp blade. Clean reusable blades with rubbing alcohol before and after use, and replace them often.[1] Never share blades. Case reports show that warts can spread across the skin with shaving, including from shared or unsterilized razors.[10]
- Start with clean, dry skin. Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Remove makeup completely.
- Hold the skin taut with your free hand so the blade glides instead of catching.
- Use short, light strokes. Hold the blade at a low angle and move slowly and carefully.[1] Let the blade do the work; pressing harder does not remove more hair, only more skin.
- Go around, not over, bumps. Avoid moles, skin tags, raised spots and the eyelids.[11]
- Moisturize and protect. Apply a gentle moisturizer afterward and keep using sunscreen.[1]
- Watch your skin for a day or two. Mild irritation for about a day is common.[1] See a dermatologist if redness, pain or bumps get worse or don’t settle.
Who should avoid dermaplaning?
You should skip dermaplaning, or check with a dermatologist first, if any of the following apply.
- Active acne. Dermaplaning can aggravate a breakout or trigger more, so wait until it settles.[1] The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) also warns that scrubbing irritates skin and can make acne flare.[12]
- Rosacea, especially during a flare. The AAD advises people with rosacea to avoid scrubbing and to stop exfoliating, because anything that irritates the skin can cause a flare.[13]
- Eczema, psoriasis, rashes or cold sores. Cleveland Clinic recommends talking to a provider first if you have any of these, or burns or skin growths in the area.[11]
- Warts on the face. Blades can spread them. Get them treated first.[10]
- Isotretinoin (oral acne medication). The US label for isotretinoin advises avoiding waxing, dermabrasion and laser procedures during treatment and for at least 6 months afterward.[14] Dermaplaning is not named, and a 2017 Indian dermatology guideline argues that the 6-month rule is based on weak evidence for many procedures.[14] Because isotretinoin makes skin fragile, ask your dermatologist before you dermaplane.
- Prescription retinoids. These also make facial skin more fragile. Dermatology sources advise pausing them before waxing the face to avoid removing skin along with hair.[6][15] There is no specific guidance for dermaplaning, so ask your dermatologist.
A note on darker skin. Dermaplaning can cause skin to become lighter or darker than the surrounding area.[11] Irritation is more likely to leave dark marks in darker skin tones, so be especially gentle, and don’t go over the same area repeatedly.
Should you dermaplane at home or see a professional?
For hair removal, at-home dermaplaning is usually enough. The hair result is the same: Hair is cut at the surface either way.[1] A professional treatment is done by a trained specialist with a scalpel, sometimes after a numbing cream, and is often marketed more for exfoliation, acne scars or fine lines than for hair.[11] Consider a professional if you have sensitive skin, if you keep nicking yourself, or if you want the exfoliation benefits and prefer someone else to handle the blade. Ask whether the provider is trained and how the instruments are sterilized.
What lasts longer than dermaplaning?
If you are tired of removing the same hairs every few days, there are options that reduce hair over time. The Endocrine Society’s 2018 hirsutism guideline suggests laser or light-based hair removal (photoepilation) for most women who choose hair removal, and electrolysis for white or blonde hair.[8] For women with high androgen levels, the guideline also suggests medication alongside hair removal to slow regrowth.[8] Read our guide to permanent hair removal with laser, IPL and electrolysis.
When to see a doctor
Dermaplaning manages the hair, not the cause. If you haven’t been checked for the reason behind your facial hair, it is worth seeing a doctor. You can start with our hirsutism self-check. See a doctor promptly if you notice any of these:
- Hair growth that starts suddenly or gets worse quickly[8]
- A deepening voice, an enlarged clitoris or increasing muscle mass, which are signs of virilization[8]
- Irregular or missing periods[8]
- A skin reaction after dermaplaning that is spreading, painful, or not settling after a few days
Frequently asked questions
Does dermaplaning make facial hair grow back thicker?
No. Dermaplaning cuts hair at the surface, just like shaving, and does not change the follicle. Regrowth feels coarser at first only because the cut tip is blunt.[1][2]
Is dermaplaning better than shaving for PMOS chin hair?
Not really. For coarse hormonal hair, both last only a day or two. Dermaplaning adds exfoliation, which is why it shouldn’t be done more than once a week, so a regular razor is often more practical for daily chin hair.[1]
Can I dermaplane if I have acne?
Not during an active breakout. Dermaplaning can aggravate acne or trigger new spots, so wait until your skin settles.[1]
Is dermaplaning safe for dark skin?
It can be, if you are gentle. Irritation can leave lighter or darker patches, so avoid going over the same area repeatedly and skip it when skin is already irritated.[11]
Does dermaplaning remove hair permanently?
No. It only cuts hair at the surface. Laser or light treatments and electrolysis are the options that can reduce hair long term.[8]
Key takeaways
- Dermaplaning removes hair the same way shaving does, by cutting it at the surface.
- It does not make hair thicker, darker or faster-growing.
- It suits fine peach fuzz best. Coarse hormonal hair returns within a day or two, and dermatologists advise dermaplaning no more than once a week.
- Skip it during acne or rosacea flares, with rashes or warts, and ask your dermatologist first if you take isotretinoin or a retinoid.
- For long-term reduction, consider laser or electrolysis, plus medical treatment if hormones are driving your hair growth.
Sources
- Cleveland Clinic Health Essentials. Is it OK to try dermaplaning at home? June 13, 2022. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Mayo Clinic. Shaving hair: Does shaved hair grow back thicker? Accessed October 2026. Link
- Gutierrez A, Coffel BN, Wong EB. Management of facial hair in women. Cutis. 2025;116(6):198-201. DOI 10.12788/cutis.1310
- Teede HJ, Bahri Khomami M, Morman R, et al. Polyendocrine metabolic ovarian syndrome, the new name for polycystic ovary syndrome: a multistep global consensus process. Lancet. 2026;407(10545):2329-2339. Published online May 12, 2026. PubMed 42119588
- American Academy of Dermatology. 6 ways to remove unwanted hair. Accessed October 2026. Link
- American Academy of Dermatology. Hair removal: How to wax. Accessed October 2026. Link
- American Academy of Dermatology. Razor bump remedies. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Martin KA, Anderson RR, Chang RJ, et al. Evaluation and Treatment of Hirsutism in Premenopausal Women: An Endocrine Society Clinical Practice Guideline. J Clin Endocrinol Metab. 2018;103(4):1233-1257. PubMed 29522147
- DermNet. Epilation. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Sonthalia S, Arora R, Sarkar R. Cosmetic warts: pseudo-koebnerization of warts after cosmetic procedures for hair removal. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015;8(7):52-56. PubMed 26203322
- Cleveland Clinic. Dermaplaning. Accessed October 2026. Link
- American Academy of Dermatology. 10 skin care habits that can worsen acne. Accessed October 2026. Link
- American Academy of Dermatology. 7 rosacea skin care tips dermatologists recommend. Accessed October 2026. Link
- Mysore V, Mahadevappa OH, Barua S, et al. Standard guidelines of care: performing procedures in patients on or recently administered with isotretinoin. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2017;10(4):186-194. PubMed 29491653
- DermNet. Waxing. Accessed October 2026. Link
This article is for education and is not medical advice. Talk to a doctor about diagnosis and treatment.